Simple palates, Seriously

France: Bordeaux, Rhone Valley, Burgundy, Sauternes

Chateau Beaucastel 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape
A lovely blend of 30% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre, 10% Syrah, 10% Counoise, and the balance split among the other permitted varietals of the appellation. This inky purple drink boasts of a particular men's cologne which I can't quite work out the name of. But let's not get hung up on that, there's still plenty of sweet herbs, cigar smoke, undergrowth, big ripe blackberries and juicy dark cherry. This is big, bold and beautiful. Reminds me of standing by a rushing stream with freshly stomped grass by the bank, right after a good bout of rain, ready for a strawberry picnic. Complex wine that will make you go mmmm over the next 15 years. 96/100. Tasted 24th Dec 2007.
Branaire-Ducru 1999 Branaire-Ducru 1999, St Julien, Bordeaux
A decade old, this was typical St Julien in its aromas of black currants, raspberry, graphite and pencil shavings. Medium-bodied, the tannins have resolved and together with the acids have moved completely into the background. Pure, elegant and lovely to drink right now. Easy to keep this for another 5-7 years. 89-90/100.
Tasted Dec 2009.
Domaine Des Beaumont Morey St Denis Millandes 2006, Morey St Denis, Burgundy $115-145. An old vineyard located just below the Grand Cru Clos St-Denis of which ~30% was replanted by Thierry Beaumont following a freezing winter in the mid 80s. Concentrated, dark berry fruit, hint of caramelisation and a touch of sugar carbon. A smooth, dark drink with rich fruit flavours with sweeping fine tannins. Drink now to 15 years. 91/100. Tasted June 2009.
Albert Belle 'les terres blanches' Crozes-Hermitage Blanc 2004 $36-38, a blend of Marsanne and Roussanne, 13.0%. Nice clear colour, good structure, well balance of acidity and minerality. 88/100. Tasted 28th July 2007.
Albert Belle Hermitage Blanc 2004 $130 - $140, nice sweet smell, reminds me of morning forest. Crisp and fresh, light minerality. 91/100. Tasted 28th July 2007.
Albert Belle les Pierrelles Crozes-Hermitage Rouge 2005 $36-40, 100% shiraz, nice light nose, good fruit with youthful tannins and abit of bark towards the end? 90/100. Tasted 28th July 2007.
Albert Belle Louis Belle Crozes-Hermitage Rouge 2005 $45-50, 100% shiraz from older vines and exposed to a touch of  younger oak. Smooth and elegant, crystal clear red fruit. 92+/100. Tasted 28th July 2007.
Domaine Belle Hermitage Rouge 2004 From the climat of "Murets" with vines dating back to the 60's. cropped at 1.8tonnes/acre, 100% shiraz, 60% new oak for about 22 months. Nose of light chicken essence with ginseng, great clear red fruit with subtle tannins. 94/100. Tasted 28th July 2007.
Bouchard Pere et Fils Bourgogne 'Chardonnay' 2007 Really? Do I read 'Chardonnay' on this label? Really now.. and how many more bottles do the French expect to sell now that they've started to varietal-ly label their wines.. anyway, I digressed.. this clear, pale gold coloured wine has a generous aroma profile of baby stone fruit, leaning towards sweeter nectarine spectrum. Hint of creamy sponge confectionary too. Easy drinking with ripe citrus acids mingled with peachy flavours towards the backend, but ooo.. a touch of pith right at the finish. 88/100. $35 from Randall's. Drink up now. Tasted March 2010.
Maison Henri Boillot Savigny les Beaune Les Lavieres 2006, Beaune, Burgundy $95-120. Dusty clay earth with elegant but not weak or soft red fruit. A hint of oak with sweet, fresh fruit flavours ending with a lovely finish. Drink now to 10 years. 90/100. Tasted June 2009.

Vignobles Brunier Le Pigoulet vin de pays Vaucluse 2005, Chateauneuf du Pape

$24-28. Something you'd expect to see as the cafe house red, this medium bodied wine has a nice ruby colour that is probably slightly over-priced for the Aus market at $24-28. Drink in the next year. 85/100. Tasted 1st March 2008.

The following are from the portfolio of the Brunier brothers, fifth generation winemakers located in Chateauneuf du Pape, Southern Rhone. Their most well known offering is Vieux Telegraphe, but the acquisition of La Roquette (CdP) and Les Palliers (Gigondas) over the past two decades have boosted their profile and showcase their skill at producing quality wine depicting a variety of winemaking approaches and styles, especially the Roquette wines which pleasantly surprised me with their depth of flavours.

Vignobles Brunier Telegramme Chateuneuf du Pape 2005

$64-76. This was rather disappointing knowing that it comes from the line of Vieux Telegraph. It felt backward, withdrawn and hiding behind a pillar of cold stone. There's notes of savoury raspberry and rustic Provencal spice and is overall, a decent drink. Wouldn't bother filling previous cellar space with this one. 89/100. Tasted 1st March 2008.

The following are from the portfolio of the Brunier brothers, fifth generation winemakers located in Chateauneuf du Pape, Southern Rhone. Their most well known offering is Vieux Telegraphe, but the acquisition of La Roquette (CdP) and Les Palliers (Gigondas) over the past two decades have boosted their profile and showcase their skill at producing quality wine depicting a variety of winemaking approaches and styles, especially the Roquette wines which pleasantly surprised me with their depth of flavours.

Vignobles Brunier Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape 2005 $119-140. Aha! this is much better than the Telegramme. a nice dense purple with reddish tinge, lovely nose of black fruit, raspberry, kirsch and pepper. Full bodied, concentrated and pure fruit flavours with a long satisfying finish. But it's not quite ready yet, I think it will be receptive in about 4-6 years and will keep for 10+ years. 93/100. Tasted 1st March 2008.

The following are from the portfolio of the Brunier brothers, fifth generation winemakers located in Chateauneuf du Pape, Southern Rhone. Their most well known offering is Vieux Telegraphe, but the acquisition of La Roquette (CdP) and Les Palliers (Gigondas) over the past two decades have boosted their profile and showcase their skill at producing quality wine depicting a variety of winemaking approaches and styles, especially the Roquette wines which pleasantly surprised me with their depth of flavours.

Chapoutier Belleruche Cote du Rhone 2007 Fruit comes from 4 departments on sites with distinct soil profiles. An 80-20 blend of grenache and syrah. A heady nose of dark-red fruit, crushed Morello cherries with sweet baby spring onions. Spirited burst of cherry and raspberry liquorice flavours with a pinch of pepper. Sand-smoothened tannines impart a fine finish to this robust wine. Drink over the next 3-5 years. 89/100. Tasted Feb 2010.
Chapoutier La Ciboise Coteaux du Tricastin 2006 A lively blend of 60% grenache, 30% syrah and 10% carignan + mourvèdre. Zippy notes of cherries and plums with a slight perfume of sweet brush spices. A tasty fruit-forward wine, the soft tannins with a slight bitterness of plum skin makes this ideal for a lamb chop BBQ or mandarin duck on a day with a cool breeze. Drink NOW. 87/100. Tasted Feb 2010.
Robert Chevillon Nuits St Georges 2006, Burgundy

$88-110. Powerful blueberry fruit, hint of sweet clove and 5 spice. Robust tannin structure that lends good weight to this powerful wine. Tannins should settle in 5-7 years to allow the elegant side of this wine to shine through. 91-92/100. Tasted June 2009.

 

Robert Chevillon Nuits St Georges Les Chaignots 2006, Burgundy $120-150. The lingering perfume in a lady's fur coat. Sweet, dark fruit, fresh and well-sculpted. Robust, dusty tannins that quickly give way to a second wave of fruit to finish. 95-96/100. Tasted June 2009.
Clos St-Jean 2004, Chateauneuf Du Pape is a great followup to the 2003 vintage. It may not be the best CDP out there, but is the perfect accompaniment to slow roast duck leg seasoned with italian herbs. No overt flaws, I can't complain. 94/100.
Chateau Coutet 2003, Sauternes
Tasted as part of CNY Sauternes lineup:
Golden colour, slightly richer than the first 4 wines. Nothing too clear ont eh nose but fresh and greenish, like crisp salad. Flavour - mellow and rich, concentrated at the tip of the tongue and mid pallet. Big and malleable aftertaste. 94-96/100. Retaste after 4 days: Undertones of unripe white peach. Rich, bitey mouthful. Tangy. Sweeping aftertaste of good length.
Denis Mortet Bourgogne Rouge 2004, Burgundy ($50-60): Narrow and tight, but fruity. 88/100 Tasted 26th May 2007.
Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Cing Terriors 2004, Burgundy ($115-135): Elegant but less ripe, earthy notes with broad, expansive sweetness that leaves a tingle on the palate. Good long finish. 92-93/100 Tasted 26th May 2007.

Digioia-Royer 2005 Bourgogne Rouge, Chambolle-Musigny, Cote D'or

Dark crimson in colour, nose icey fresh spring water, damp morning mushroom forest with stong brooding red fruit. This is a young wine, chewy tannins present but lots of fruity flavours with white cherry with slight hint of ripening yellow-fleshed plum. Soft aftertaste. 89/100. Tasted Sept 2007.
Durant St-Joseph Les Coteaux 2005 $47-55, savoury chicken soup initially? red fruit, youthful tannins, but a touch too much right now? 89/100. Tasted 28th July 2007.
Durand Cornas Premices 2005 $58-68, simple, approachable wine with cherry flavours and earthy red fruit. 90/100. Tasted 28th July 2007.
Durant Super Cornas Empreintes (Imprint) 2005 $85-99, nose has a carpet-y velvety feel, lots of primary red fruit. 90/100. Tasted 28th July 2007.
Durand St-Joseph Lautaret 2005 $58-68, YOUNG YOUNG YOUNG! light bodied drink with loads of red fruit, but over-whelmed by tannins right now. Do not touch for 3-4 years. 90/100. Tasted 28th July 2007.
Chateau Filhot 2003, Sauternes
Tasted as part of CNY Sauternes lineup:
Light golden colour. Lacks floral bouquest typical of bigger sauternes. Nose of esters (almond), nothing obvious standing out. Gracious feel throughout the mouth, slightly high acidity. Sweet, aftertaste in back corners of mouth. 90/100 Retaste after 4 days: Honeyed, light oaked. Hard to know if it will improve. 88-89/100
Domaine Gerard Boulay Sancerre Chavignol 2008 $50. This wonderful Sauvignon Blanc exudes notes of grapefruit and lime with a hint of icy mint. Tasty flavours of citrus and white peach, an absolute smacker worthy of space in the storage. 90/100. Tasted December 2009.
Domaine Gros Frere et Soeur Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Nuits 2005, Burgundy An entry level wine, light weight at only 12.5%. Medium ruby colour with a lighter tinge on the edges. There is so much fruit in the glass just bursting to get out! Notes of red fruit with a dash of sweet spice, mixed with earthy notes of fresh brown mushroom. Silky smooth into the mouth, lush flavours of red fruit with low levels of soft tannins that leaves a warm trailing aftertaste that's not tame and weak in anyway, but sufficient enough for satisfaction. 90/100. Tasted August 2007.

Domaine Gros Frères et Soeur is situated in Vosne-Romanée and is one of three domaines owned by the Gros family who have been grape growers since 1830. The current owner is Bernard Gros who owns land in Clos de Vougeot, Richebourg, Grands Echezeaux, Vosne-Romanée and Hautes-Côtes de Nuits. This is one of the top growers in all of Bourgogne making velvety smooth wines. Winemaking is clearly a family trait as his sister, Anne Gros, also owns property and releases her own labels which are highly regarded too.

Guigal Condrieu 2006 $80-95. What a beautiful viognier! Light gold in colour, notes of nectarine, sweet pear and reduced lemon skin. Ripe yet clean citrus flavours with a sensation of lignin flowing through into a long, satisfying finish. 92/100. Tasted at PWS August 2009.
Guigal Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2006 $20. The entry level white, this is a somewhat accurate reflection of varietal typicity, but the fruit is somewhat muted to the following white offerings, and lacks the edge of freshness. For this price, it still represents good value for a casual drink over the next 1-2 years. 88/100. Tasted at PWS August 2009.
Guigal Cotes du Rhone Rouge 2005 $20. This entry level blend of shiraz and grenache is good value for money. It's rich with sweet berry fruit and a quick dash of pepper. There is a component of the night, it's got a velvety texture and is dense and ripe. This will keep you happy until 2010. 89/100. Tasted at PWS August 2009.
Guigal Cote Rotie
Brune et Blonde 2005
$120-145. Lovely ruby colour, an intense wine with a big bouquet of ripe raspberry and stewed cherry, cassis with a touch of herb. Lush flowing fruit flavours backed with fine grainy tannins leading into a long, pleasing finish. Drink over 10+ years. 91-92/100. Tasted at PWS August 2009.
Guigal Chateau d'Ampuis Cote Rotie 2003 Oh wow! Dense ruby purple colour, aromas of cassis, raspberry, black cherry, hint of minced olive on roast. Sexy, curvy wine that is pure and fresh. I wish I had bought more of this. There's no need to wait on this, it's so drinkable right now, and will continue to be assesible for the next 15-20 years. 98+/100. (Personal bottle)
Guigal Chateau d'Ampuis Cote Rotie 2004 This is an intriguing experience, although clearly not the best representative of this label. Forest undergrowth, herby with red currants under your feet and squished cherries in hand. Not a keeper like other superior vintages, drink up over the next 5-7 years. 92/100. (Personal bottle)
Guigal Chateau d'Ampuis Cote Rotie 2005 $240-300. A robust wine with a punch. This is dense and concentrated with notes of dark berry fruit, spice, and herb marinated pheasant breast fillets. Sweet chewy tannins lend themselves to this beautiful, bold wine. Don't touch this now if you want to enjoy this in its peak in 7-15 years. 96-97/100. Tasted at PWS August 2009.
Guigal Crozes-Hermitage 2005 $40. The basic crozes-hermitage is a dense, full-bodied wine that is a mix of cassis splashed onto fresh leather, hint of black olive and damp bramble. Balanced with sweet tannins and good level of acidity. Good value for money as the next step up from the entry Cotes du Rhone. 90/100. Tasted at PWS August 2009.
Guigal St Joseph
Lieu-dit Blanc 2007
$80-95. An expressive LdB exuding notes of clear, sugared berry juice and honeysuckle bearing down on a hint of minerality. A delicious, layered wine that is full-bodied and well-structured so it's not flabby. 93/100.Tasted at PWS August 2009.
Guigal St Joseph
Lieu dit Saint Joseph 2001
Big, dense and rich, earthy cherry, hint of olive and spice. A good drink to be enjoyed right now. The 2001 didn't have the purity and sleekness of the 2003. 91-92/100. (Personal bottle)
Guigal St Joseph
Lieu dit Saint Joseph 2003
A rich aromas of little flowers growing on rocks on the swiss alps with blackberries and currants. A very fine drink that is perfectly balanced in structure and weight. Drinking beautifully now, drink over next 10 years. 95/100. (Personal bottle)
Guigal St Joseph
Lieu dit Saint Joseph 2006
$80-95. Dense ruby colour, aromas of black cherry, ripe raspberry and liquorice. This elegant wine surprised me in terms of the level of tannins on the palate as they were hardly noticeable despite being matured in 100% new French oak. Drink over 10 years. 93-94/100. Tasted at PWS August 2009.
Guigal St Joseph Vignes de l'Hospice 2006 $170-200. A great expressive wine with aromas of raspberries, blackcurrant, incense and graphite. Fresh, pure and ripe flavours etched onto fine grained, sweet tannins. Drink over next 15+ years. 95/100. Tasted at PWS August 2009.
Chateau Guiraud 2003, Sauternes
Tasted as part of CNY Sauternes lineup:
Deep, dark subtle honey nose with a faint grassy note right at the end. Not too sweet, honeyed candy. Well-balanced in terms of acidity, sensation lingers on the mid tongue. Good length for aftertaste on the mid/back pallet. 92-94/100. Retaste after 4 days: Rich nose that isn't overpowering. Opulent mouthful with a good balance of acidity. Sweeping aftertaste on the back pallet. 94-96/100.
Henri Gouges Nuits St-Georges les Chaignots 2004 1er, Burgundy ($105-125): Elegant, light nose of morning damp earth, combined with nice light fruitiness and a good lengthed aftertaste. 90-91/100 Tasted 26th May 2007
Henri Gouges Nuits St-Georges Vaucrains 2004 1er, Burgundy ($150-180): Burghound says this is a big wine, but I thought this wasn't big or rich enough. Had a higher tannin/acid structure and a sappy dry palate. Very tight at the moment. 90/100 Tasted 26th May 2007
Jacques Puffeney Arbois Chardonnay 2005, Jura Clear medium lemon colour, a soft well-rounded nose of oak mingled with smoky, ripe summer lemon zest, chalk stone dust and lime talc. Youthful citrus (lemon) flavours propped with fresh ripe acids. Easy drink good from now till 2012. 88/100. Tasted March 2010.
Jean Grivot 2006 Vosne-Romanee, Burgundy $100-120. A subdued nose, black berries with a hint of spice whirled together, and this comes through much better on the palate. This is a medium-bodied wine with dark berry flavours with spice, cloves and cinnamon. The tannins are firm and velvety, but do not pose a mouthful at this early age. Lovely finish. Drink now, but have a bottle or two in 5-7 years. 90/100. Tasted Dec 2008.

Domaine Jean Grivot, according to Etienne Grivot, has only come into itself in recent years. Despite more than 20 years of making wine, Etienne feels that he has only just started to figure out the optimal intricacies of fruit selection, pressing, fermentation and oak treatment. Gone are the hard tannins and masculine structure of the wines from the 90s. Grivot wines of the 2000s are more aromatic, perfume of flowers, pure fruit essence and flavours, but not letting up in terms of complexity. The wines are well-balanced, of a good structure and will be worth cellaring.
Jean Grivot 2006 Charmois Nuits St.Georges, Burgundy $100-120. A touch of lavender and cinnamon on the nose. Wonderful textures with layers of slightly ripening strawberries and red cherry through a cushioned finish. The tannins are well-integrated but lend themselves to a finish which unfortunately ended a little too soon. Drink now, or in 5-7 years. 90/100. Tasted Dec 2008.

Domaine Jean Grivot, according to Etienne Grivot, has only come into itself in recent years. Despite more than 20 years of making wine, Etienne feels that he has only just started to figure out the optimal intricacies of fruit selection, pressing, fermentation and oak treatment. Gone are the hard tannins and masculine structure of the wines from the 90s. Grivot wines of the 2000s are more aromatic, perfume of flowers, pure fruit essence and flavours, but not letting up in terms of complexity. The wines are well-balanced, of a good structure and will be worth cellaring.
Jean Grivot 2006 Brulees Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru, Burgundy $180-220. Brulees is sited just above Richebourg and typically shows richness, perfumed aromatics and a solid core. The 2006 had a softer nose though certainly a step up from the Grand Cru. This is a rich, fleshy drink with red and black berry flavours but retains its pure fruit freshness and is not flabby or confused. The young tannins are still clearly visible but fades off to allow the fruit to kick back in for a second wave that leads into a wonderful finish. Enjoy one now, the rest in 7 years. 93/100.

Domaine Jean Grivot, according to Etienne Grivot, has only come into itself in recent years. Despite more than 20 years of making wine, Etienne feels that he has only just started to figure out the optimal intricacies of fruit selection, pressing, fermentation and oak treatment. Gone are the hard tannins and masculine structure of the wines from the 90s. Grivot wines of the 2000s are more aromatic, perfume of flowers, pure fruit essence and flavours, but not letting up in terms of complexity. The wines are well-balanced, of a good structure and will be worth cellaring.
Jean Grivot 2006 Les Boudots Nuits St.Georges 1er Cru, Burgundy $180-220. Boudots is on the border with Vosne, and is in close proximity with La Tache - certainly one feature that couldn't be talked up more! Qualities of dark fruit, cherry, almost brandy-like richness with sweet clove spice. Young with ripe tannins at the moment, well-rounded flavours with good acidity and backbone. A vibrant drink assured to bring enjoyment. 93-94/100. Tasted Dec 2008.

Domaine Jean Grivot, according to Etienne Grivot, has only come into itself in recent years. Despite more than 20 years of making wine, Etienne feels that he has only just started to figure out the optimal intricacies of fruit selection, pressing, fermentation and oak treatment. Gone are the hard tannins and masculine structure of the wines from the 90s. Grivot wines of the 2000s are more aromatic, perfume of flowers, pure fruit essence and flavours, but not letting up in terms of complexity. The wines are well-balanced, of a good structure and will be worth cellaring.
Jean Grivot 2006 Echezeaux, Burgundy $270-320. This leaks Class! Lovely dark fruit mingled with aromas of anise and undergrowth. The tannins in this wine appear slightly more resolved compared to the rest of the 06s, and are intertwined with the pure fruit flavours. Perhaps a slight knock is the fruit tends to the simpler side, and lacks any more obvious signs of complexity. Brilliant for 2018/19 NYE. 94-95/100.  Tasted Dec 2008.

Domaine Jean Grivot, according to Etienne Grivot, has only come into itself in recent years. Despite more than 20 years of making wine, Etienne feels that he has only just started to figure out the optimal intricacies of fruit selection, pressing, fermentation and oak treatment. Gone are the hard tannins and masculine structure of the wines from the 90s. Grivot wines of the 2000s are more aromatic, perfume of flowers, pure fruit essence and flavours, but not letting up in terms of complexity. The wines are well-balanced, of a good structure and will be worth cellaring.
Jean Grivot 2006 Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy $230-280. A big sleek offering here, cold fresh dark berry and cherry fruit with herb bouquet suggest a rich, concentrated wine. The follow through is not disappointing, clean intense fruit essence, prominent, ripe young tannins do not diminish the intensity of the fruit and the purity trickles into the long finish. Forget about this to 10-15 years. 95+/100. Tasted Dec 2008.

Domaine Jean Grivot, according to Etienne Grivot, has only come into itself in recent years. Despite more than 20 years of making wine, Etienne feels that he has only just started to figure out the optimal intricacies of fruit selection, pressing, fermentation and oak treatment. Gone are the hard tannins and masculine structure of the wines from the 90s. Grivot wines of the 2000s are more aromatic, perfume of flowers, pure fruit essence and flavours, but not letting up in terms of complexity. The wines are well-balanced, of a good structure and will be worth cellaring.

Joseph Landron Domaine de la Louvetrie Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie 2007

$28. Great for a warm summer day with salty oysters kindly provided by Prince Wine Store. This was the standout on the afternoon with floral notes, peach and fresh lime. A reasonably high level of acidity in this, a touch of zip with the saltish orange citrus flavours. 90/100. Tasted December 2009.
Krug Brut Grande Cuvee NV The delicious Krug Grande Cuvee is an example of powerful, complex flavours in balance with elegance and finesse. Notes of spicy pear and minerals. 90-91/100. Tasted Jan 2010.
Chateau Lafaurie-Payraguey 2003, Sauternes
Tasted as part of CNY Sauternes lineup:
Slightly darker golden colour; bigger, sweet floral nose, higher alcohol, with strong, streaky legs. Nose of honeyed confectionary, taste of honey suckle, mellow and mature flavours. But aftertaste tapers off quite quickly. 88/100. Retaste after 4 days: Richer nose with sweet tangy mouthful. Aftertaste is of moderate length and concentrates on the back half of the pallet. 91-93/100.
Chateau La Tour Blanche 2003, Sauternes
Tasted as part of CNY Sauternes lineup:
Light yellow colour, not as dense as 1C. Legs not as fast as 1C. Not perfumed or floral, more nutmeg. Flavours of nutmeg, not very sweet. Weak sensation on the mid pallet, lacks acidity. Poor aftertaste. 88/100. Retaste after 4 days: Light honeyed notes, weak on pallet. Simple sugars. Lacks aftertaste. 88-89/100.
Louis Lequin Santenay 2006 Premier Cru Clos Rousseau SGD$35, half bottle. Notes of soft cherry oak with peppered dark red currants. Ripe spicy plum and cherry flavours with raw tannins that require quite a bit of polishing up. Lacks spirit. 86/100. Tasted Feb 2010.
Louis Lequin Santenay 2006 Premier Cru La Comme SGD$35, half bottle. Soft rounded oaked nose of hot dark berries and over-ripened cherries after a bout of torrential rain. A linear palate profile of spicy cherry, hint of nutmeg and raw coffee bean tannins. 87/100. Tasted Feb 2010.
Domaine Matassa Cotes Catalanes Blanc 2004, Calce, Languedoc-Roussillon
An easy pre-Australia Day drink pulled from my cardboard carton. I almost forgot about this in the fridge and I think the wine is showing its age. This wine was made by New Zealanders and you can read more about them in this Wineanorak article here. Made from old vine Grenache Gris (70%) and Maccabeu (the most cultivated white variety in this region). A light wine with an initial nose of cold-room budding white flowers and a hint of clarified butter which dissipate very quickly upon swirling to give way to more fruity and flint stone aromas. The wine has developed into a light golden colour, the palate is rich in citrus and fruit sucrose with a strong mineral edge to polish into the finish. However, I don't think the acids are in sync, being quite a fair bit more robust than the rest of the wine. Drink now. 91/100.
Chateau Nairac 1996, Barsec
Tasted as part of CNY Sauternes lineup:
Rich, glossy, pecan-like lacquer colour. Rich walnut nose, very flavoursome concentrating on the back pallet. Good balance of acidity, slightly on the higher side but not too much to handle. This is probably at it's peak so if you have these sitting around, better gulp them down quick! Retaste after 4 days: Dark golden, rich, elegant walnut notes. Orangey flavours, back pallet, warm feeling. Good acidity, but I feel it's past it's peak.
Maison Nicolas Potel Beaune Greve 2006, Beaune, Burgundy $75-95. From vines planted in 1904, aromas of dark berries and ripe raspberry but a hint of a higher alcohol level? The fruit is sullen on the palate with a touch of savouriness. The tannins still have a rough edge to them, so keep this for 2-3 years and drink before 10. 88/100. Tasted June 2009.
Maison Nicolas Potel Bonnes Mares 2006, Bonnes Mares, Burgundy $235-295. Robust, spicy red currants and raspberry on the nose which flow through into the palate. Sweeping 'xiang-za' flavours, berry reduction and hint of liquorice. The tannins ont he side are a distracting head-turner, like lights in your side mirror but they pass-by, then you have an easy ride home. But keep your attention up, lots of cars still on the road! (This is not a drink-drive promo) Drink in 10+ years. 93-94/100. Tasted June 2009.
Maison Nicolas Potel Chambertin 2006, Chambertin, Burgundy $235-295. Smoked cherry blossom, black tea leaves. Seductive, head-turning perfume, not enough to leap out onto you, but yet so enticing. Lovely, rich red fruit flavours, backed by a perfect level of tannins laid upon a hot, wet rock. Great structure and length to this well-rounded wine! 93-95/100. Tasted June 2009.

Domaine L'Oratoire St Martin Carianne Rouge Haut Coustias 2005, Carianne

$47-55. A blend of Mourvedre 60%,  Grenache 20% and Syrah 20% from 65 year-old vines croped at 30hL/ha. Hand-picked, destemmed and fermented with pigeage for 18 days before a further 24 months maturation in Burgundy barrels. Dark red with crushed blackberry and Provencal herbs on the nose. This full-bodied wine is rice in flavour, spicey, peppery and packs some punch. The tannins are still front and present but should clear in 5 years. 91-92/100. Tasted March 2008.

Situated in the Cairanne region is Domaine L'Oratoire St Martin est. 1692 which has been kept pumping by the last ten generations till the present brother pairing of Frederic and François Alary who took over in 1984. The vineyards occupy 25ha on the slopes of St Martin with 5ha of old vine grenache and mourvedre. The main part of the domain is situated to the north-east of Cairanne, 200m from the hills of Rasteau in a zone commonly called 'la Montague' in the Les Douyes et Saint Martin district. The white grape varieties and syrah are grown in the Douyes quarter which faces east north-east. The coolness and the colder clay soils allow the grapes to develop with more finesse and elegance. The St Martin district faces south south-east and is planted with grenache and mourvedre. These later ripening varieties benefit from the exposure to the sun by maturing with aromatic richness. Haut Coustias comes under this district.

 

Domaine L'Oratoire St Martin Carianne Rouge Reserve des Seiguers 2006, Carianne

$36-43. A blend of Grenache 60%, Mourvedre 30% and Syrah 10% from 50 year-old vines cropped at 38hL/ha. Hand-harvested, destemmed and 12 days fermentation with pigeage followed by 9months in vats. Dark red/purple colour. Subdued nose of red berries and currants, leather and a hint of tobacco. Full-bodied and good tasting, rich pure red fruits, spicey, ripe tannins. The finish is satisfying. 91/100. Tasted March 2008.

Situated in the Cairanne region is Domaine L'Oratoire St Martin est. 1692 which has been kept pumping by the last ten generations till the present brother pairing of Frederic and François Alary who took over in 1984. The vineyards occupy 25ha on the slopes of St Martin with 5ha of old vine grenache and mourvedre. The main part of the domain is situated to the north-east of Cairanne, 200m from the hills of Rasteau in a zone commonly called 'la Montague' in the Les Douyes et Saint Martin district. The white grape varieties and syrah are grown in the Douyes quarter which faces east north-east. The coolness and the colder clay soils allow the grapes to develop with more finesse and elegance. The St Martin district faces south south-east and is planted with grenache and mourvedre. These later ripening varieties benefit from the exposure to the sun by maturing with aromatic richness. Haut Coustias comes under this district.

Domaine L'Oratoire St Martin Carianne Rouge Cuvee Prestige 2006, Carianne

$45-53. The oldest vines are used for the Cuvee Prestige, 100 year-old vines cropped at only 18hL/ha are used for this Grenache 60% Mourvedre 40% blend. Hand harvested, destemmed and fermented with pigeage for 15 days before 12 months maturation in vats. Dark red/purple, very aromatic, black currants, truffle and musk before the flavours of spice, white pepper and liquorice fill your mouth in a very satisfying way. Fine, fine finish. Still young and fresh, needs to sit for another 3-4 years to balance out. 93/100. Tasted March 2008.

Situated in the Cairanne region is Domaine L'Oratoire St Martin est. 1692 which has been kept pumping by the last ten generations till the present brother pairing of Frederic and François Alary who took over in 1984. The vineyards occupy 25ha on the slopes of St Martin with 5ha of old vine grenache and mourvedre. The main part of the domain is situated to the north-east of Cairanne, 200m from the hills of Rasteau in a zone commonly called 'la Montague' in the Les Douyes et Saint Martin district. The white grape varieties and syrah are grown in the Douyes quarter which faces east north-east. The coolness and the colder clay soils allow the grapes to develop with more finesse and elegance. The St Martin district faces south south-east and is planted with grenache and mourvedre. These later ripening varieties benefit from the exposure to the sun by maturing with aromatic richness. Haut Coustias comes under this district.

Domaine les Pallieres 2005, Gigondas

$64-75. This 68 acre vineyard is a joint venture with american importer Kermit Lynch, cropped at 25hl/hectare and aged in one- and two-year old foudres. Dark ruby purple colour, this has a heady nose of cherry, crushed rock, spice box and young blossoms. This medium-full bodied wine is something different for me and an interesting comparison to typical CdP style. It's still abit dishevelled right now, slightly disjointed but I think the it will come together nicely in about 2-3 years. RP suggests that it will drink well over the next 20 years. 91/100. Tasted 1st March 2008.

The following are from the portfolio of the Brunier brothers, fifth generation winemakers located in Chateauneuf du Pape, Southern Rhone. Their most well known offering is Vieux Telegraphe, but the acquisition of La Roquette (CdP) and Les Palliers (Gigondas) over the past two decades have boosted their profile and showcase their skill at producing quality wine depicting a variety of winemaking approaches and styles, especially the Roquette wines which pleasantly surprised me with their depth of flavours.

Domaine Patrick Jasmin Cote Rotie 2005 $110-120, 92% shiraz, 8% viognier, from single staked vines cropped at 2tonnes/acre. Vines average 6 bunches of fruit, which are pruned by half upon varignon (changing of colour). CLASSIC Cote Rotie style, exotic spice on the nose, initially almost a touch of sweet durian? Light, vibrant with youthful tannins. Will go for 10-15 years. 93-94/100. Tasted 28th July 2007.
Pavie 1999 Pavie 1999, St Emilion, Bordeaux
A beauty of a wine; this is absolutely pure, multilayered boasting aromas of black currants, cherry, licorice and crushed quartz. The fine tannins are gradually integrating into the wine and form the backbone of this wine’s solid structure. This will easily go for another 15+ years. 95/100. Tasted Dec 2009.
2004 Domaine du Pegau Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Reservee
AUD$102. No Cuvee da Capo in 2004, which translates to great news for Cuvee Reservee lovers as the high quality juice got blended into the Reservee! Opulent dark and dense purple colour, powered by a rich nose of liquorice, spice, kirsch liquor and savoury notes. Full bodied, loaded with flavour and rich on the palate. BUT it's not as accessible as other 2004 CdPs at the moment as the tannins that linger with the finish are impart a slight jarring sensation on an otherwise brilliant taste. My guess is to lay this one down for another 3-4 years. 94-96/100.
Domaine des Perdrix Echezeaux Grand Cru 2003 No tasting notes written. 93/100. Tasted Jan 2010.
Perrot Minot Gevrey Chamertin 2006,
Burgundy
$120-150. Trudging through spring woods with slight humidity in the air, the sun shines through on small white flowers with rich small red berries in the forage and the bushes. Long satisfying finish, elegant and I want this to go on and on. 93/100. Tasted June 2009.
Perrot Minot Morey St Denis La Rue de Vergy 2006, Burgundy

$120-150. Black dark fruit, concentrated yet the perfume is not overpowering, a hint of clove even. Younger tannins are present, but firm and smooth, not chunky or distracting. Ok now, but keep for 5 years at least. 91/100. Tasted June 2009.

Perrot Minot Gevrey Chambertin Perrieres Vielles Vignes 2006, Burgundy $200-250. Seductive perfume of crystal spring water washed red berries. Hint of oak is present but adds to the textured aroma profile. In terms of intensity, this is a step down from the GC, but the complexity and structure is there. Can be drunk now, but why would you? Patience will be rewarded! 15-25 years. 94-96/100. Tasted June 2009.
Perrot Minot Morey St Denis La Riotte 2006, Burgundy $200-250. Wow... Aromas of purple flower, dark black fruit, hint of sweet spice. A powerful flavour profile with sweeping layers of black fruit flavours and spice, and a finish that gives a sensation of menthol? The young tannins are robust but not obstructive. Keep for 5-7 years before drinking over 20 years. 93-94/100. Tasted June 2009.
Chateau Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 2003, Bordeaux $280-350. This lovely 2003 Pauillac is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Rich aromas of blackberry, cherries and smokey liquorice. This full-bodied wine is driven by elegant blackberry flavours held together in a multilayered structure wrapped by seamless tannins. While its ready to be drunk now, with history on its side, there is little doubt the 2003 release will last for 20+ years. 95/100. Tasted May 2009.
Chateau Poitevin Cru Bourgeois 2005, Bordeaux $30-40. There is plenty of value to be found at the cru bourgeois levels in the 2005 vintage. Poitevin is a blend of Merlot (55%), Cabernet Sauvignon (40%) and petit verdot. Ripe, dark berry fruit with the tinge of herbs typical of Cabernet Sauvignon and even a hint of oak shavings. Firm, dry velvet tannins confers the robustness to this wine. Nice finish. 90/100. Tasted May 2009.
Remejeanne Les Genevries 2004, Cotes du Rhone $40-45.  From the higher altitude (200-280m) of the village of Sabran. A blend of primarily Grenache with Shiraz and Mourvèdre. Strong white pepper, savoury beef stock, strong herbs and spice. Medium-bodied, strong aftertaste. Good with roast. Drink by 2010. 91/100. Tasted April 2008.
Chateau Rieussec 2003, Sauternes
Tasted as part of CNY Sauternes lineup:
Colour of clarified butter, not much alcohol and few legs. Notes of fresh, light honey; simple basic honey flavour with aftertaste lingering under the tongue and back pallet. 92-94/100. Retaste after 4 days: Notes of tropical fruit backed up by rich, sweet candied flavours. Very fruity.

Robert Sirugue & ses enfants 2005 Bourgogne Rouge, Vosne-Romanee, Cote D'or

Dark ruby colour with a fresh vibrant nose of red berries, cherry and a light brown meat sauce with a hint of blackcurrant menthol. Velvety feel into the mouth, nice touch of spiciness, chewy tannins for now but will soften up over the next 7-8 years. Decent finish, but still lacking a bit on the aftertaste. 87-88/100. Tasted Sept 2007.

Domaine la Roquette Chateauneuf du Pape 2005

$77-90. This has come out quite nicely in the expected style of the 2005 CdP vintage, more fruit forward and not hiding anything. This has a dark ruby/purple colour, the nose is distinctly grenache with aromas of raspberries, liquorice, hint of black pepper and Provencal herbs. The tannins are still very much present on the palate, but not overly offensive. This comes from the use of 30% stems, so you get the tannic elements which impart some elegance to the feel of this drink. I think this will settle down over the next year and will drink well over the next decade. 92-93/100. Tasted 1st March 2008.

The following are from the portfolio of the Brunier brothers, fifth generation winemakers located in Chateauneuf du Pape, Southern Rhone. Their most well known offering is Vieux Telegraphe, but the acquisition of La Roquette (CdP) and Les Palliers (Gigondas) over the past two decades have boosted their profile and showcase their skill at producing quality wine depicting a variety of winemaking approaches and styles, especially the Roquette wines which pleasantly surprised me with their depth of flavours.

Chateau Saint-Florin 1996, Bordeaux

The colour of murky, bloodied water with fine dots of sediment. A frank, forward nose of damp earth with freshly trampled grass and wild summer strawberries. A plastic bag that's just had it's leather contents removed. However, this definitely isn't spoilt. Silky smooth texture, flavours of yellow flesh plum, blue currants, tobacco, fresh herbs. Medium-bodied wine good for braising duck. Finish is light and unimpressionable. 85-6/100. Tasted 24th Dec 2007.

Segries Clos de l'Hermitage 2005

$45-49, shiraz/mourvedre/grenache. This wine has an interesting background to it. The vineyard is on a chateau owned by former F1 racer, Jean Aloisi. Plantings are exactly 1/3 for each variety, and is leased out to Segries. Light and elegant, plenty of sweet and primary fruit showing with chewy tannins. 90/100. Tasted 28th July 2007.
Senechaux Chateauneuf du Pape 2004
Initially, sweet wakame seaweed broth, then light hints of kirsh liquor and dark fruit. Refreshing taste, smooth flowing. Lively flavours of fruit cake, raspberry concentrate, peppery. Great aftertaste! Young and vibrant, good drink. 92-93/100.
Chateau Suduiraut 2003, Sauternes
Tasted as part of CNY Sauternes lineup:
Light yellow, very light, castor sugared nutmeg, nothing too obvious. Weak, tasting of sugared water. Lacks aftertaste. Some balance of acidity which lends this credit, but lacking in character overall. 88-89/100. Retaste after 4 days: Light melon candy nose. Decent aftertaste, slightly higher acidity and obvious alcoholic feed to mouth. Has developed nicely after 4 day but still lags behind on the aftertaste. 89-90/100.

2nd tasting: Had this with Milawa cow camembert and Lavosh crackers which were a good accompaniment. Rich honey nectar nose, not as dense as the 2001, but gives a good clue of the flavours to come. I didn't leave it out for long as it disappeared rather quickly, but I got hints of orange towards the end of the glass. In the mouth, not overly sweet. A nice bodied honey opulence that isn't over-powering, but I think the oak flavours are still lingering, which indicates quite obviously that this is still too young. Maybe 2-3 more years. For now, 93-95/100.

Le Tertre Du Lys D'Or 2005, Sauternes, France $189 per 6x 350ml. Notes of squished kumquat (Trust me, I've lived a life smelling these over Chinese New Year back in Singapore), honey + bee wax. This is trying to be complex and luscious, something synonymous with the 2005 Sauternes vintage, but there is much room for improvement. This has light, ripe candied citrus flavours, a tad of a dryish texture to it, acids are a little out of whack. Still a little hollow sensation in the overall flavour profile. 88-89/100. Tasted November 2009.
Trignon Gigondas 2005 $40-45. Trignon is a key producer working around the Southern valley regions with ~55 hectares of vineyards including some in Cotes du Rhone, Sablet and Rasteau. But their most consistent production is from 20 ha of Gigondas. Grenache 65%, Shiraz 25%, Mouverdre and Cinsault 10%. Matured in 50% foudres/barriques and 50% cement tanks. Bright ruby, perfumed bouquet of red berries, hint of cherry, lavender, black olive. Broad flavours of bitter cherry and blackcurrant. A good effort and youthful tannins certainly don't make this a subtle drink. Probably needs a few years to come together. Keep for 5-7 years before drinking until 2020. 90/100. Tasted April08.

Pierre Usseglio Chateauneuf du Pape 2005, Chateauneuf du Pape
USD$45. Perhaps a litte too early to be tasting the 2005 CdP vintage, but I feel that one might be able to decipher the inherent quality of the conditions on what has been described to be an average vintage that resulted in tannic and harsh wines. Ruby-purple in colour, this is a grenache-based blend incorporating 20% Mourvedre and Cinsault. Sweet intense nose of blackberry and raspberry, roasted herb and a hint of liquorice. It's youth is showing with raw tannins front and centre. Can't recommend drinking this full-bodied wine any earlier than 2012. 90/100. Tasted November 2007.
Pierre Usseglio Chateauneuf du Pape 2007 ~$80. Still very tight and restrained, deep black plum colour with aromas of earthy blackberry, sweet dark fruit and toasted herbs. A full-bodied wine, it's fleshy and powerful, fresh acids keep it focussed, but the tannins need time to settled down further. Drink in 2-3 years, but enjoy over the next 10+ years. 93/100. Tasted March 2010.
Pierre Usseglio 1999 Chateauneuf du Pape de Mon Aieul
I had this with caramelised quail at Galera de Robuchon. An old style wine, this 10,000 bottle production is a blend of 95% Grenache and 5% Cinsault and boasts of sweet floral and fruit. Do not be swayed by the tannins, this well-structured, backward wine is jammed with notes of blackberries, cherries, plums, and liquorice. This dense drink has low acidity, and finished with a firm grasp of your senses. Drinking well now, and over the next 10 years. 91/100. Tasted Jan 2008.

Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf du Pape 2004, Chateauneuf du Pape
USD$45. I love the way the 2004 CdPs have been turning out. Many are elegant drinks at this very moment, suitable for lovers of the mid-weight wines with the biff of a straw punching bag. Crimson ruby in colour, a sweet nose of herb bouquet, roasted meat with a hint of kirsch liquor. Medium+ bodied wine, well-balanced, savoury notes with integrated tannins still present and giving this good robust structure. Good representation of the traditional Provence style. 91/100. Tasted November 2007.
Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf du Pape 2007 ~$90. This is an absolute beauty to enjoy! Dark purplish-ruby colour, aromas of plums, black currants, more sweet dark fruit, liquorice, and dry purple flower (lavender). There is restrained strength in this sleek wine, the acids are there no doubt and work really well to keep it clean and fresh. The tannins are come together very nicely, they are evenly distributed to give a solid mouthful. I'd be happy to drink this after a quick decant, but who's in a real hurry over the 15+ years? 95-96/100. Tasted March 2010.
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe 2001, Chateauneuf du Pape
A deep, pure working of 60% Grenache, 15% Mourvedre, 10% Syrah, and the remainder a miscellaneous amounts of the other permitted varietals. They have been whirled and swirled into a world-shaking and mind-spinning concoction of liquorice, kirsch liquor, crème de cassis and waves of sweet, pure, intense fruit. It's a powerful wine, a young up-start compared to the 2001 Beaucastel. It's the deceptively pristine but fast flowing glacial river that will claim you once you take the plunge. Open this, and you're in if for the long haul. It's drinking now, and must surely last for the next 15-20 years. 94/100. Tasted 24th Dec 2007.
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe 2004, Chateauneuf du Pape
It is simply too early to be drinking the 04 CdPs, but I wanted to see how good the Vieux Telegraphe would be after having the 04 Senechaux. After popping, very tight on the nose with notes of steaming bitumen road after a heavy downpour. Stingy in the mouth with strong liquorice finish. But after a serious decant, it's opened up to reveal a grenache-esque nose, with light lingering aromas. Smooth into the mouth but tannins are clear and present. Crisp cherry notes and a slightly white pepperish finish that goes for a good length and leaves a warm feeling in your tummy. Revisit in 5+years. Lots of potential. 92/100
Domaine de Villeneuva Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes 2005 A restrained nose of pepper, drying herbs, rich soil with dark fruit undertones. Surprisingly medium+ to high tannin levels for the rich, fruity 2005 vintage. Elegant blackcurrant, raspberry flavours in this well-balanced medium-bodied wine, good acidity and weighty mid-palate. The wine simply opened up after 2-3 hours into a lovely floral bouquet. This will be happy to sit for the 2-3 years then should drink well till 2018. 91-92/100. Tasted June 2008.
Vincent Paris Cornas "Granite 30" 2005 $63-68, Nice nose of liquorice and spice, rich and clear flavours of black fruit. This is great stuff! Very well-balanced drink. 92-94/100. Tasted 28th July 2007.
Vincent Paris Cornas "Granite 60" 2005 $89-96, vines at located on a steep slope called "Mazards" of only 1ha, 60 and 90 year old vines. 30% stems. 100% shiraz. More subdued than the 30, Rich, chewy tannins. Will cellar for longer than the 30. 91-92/100. Tasted 28th July 2007.
Vincent Paris Elixyrah NV $74-88, rare botrytis shiraz at only 11%. wonderful colour, sweet primary grape flavours, very pleasant. From the 2002 vintage, picked at 29 beaume!! more like a shiraz TBA, luscious but abit too simple for the price? 95+/100. Tasted 28th July 2007.

Violot Guillemard Pommard Derriere St Jean 2004 1er

($100-120): Complex wine with earthy notes mingled with perfumed, dark berries. Touch of mineral and gamey smells. Well-blanced, softer flavours, smooth tannins and a long finish. 92/100. Tasted 26th May 2007.

The views expressed on this page are exclusively my own, unless otherwise stated. An offence caused is regretted, and will be retracted if, after discussion, is deemed reasonable.