19th December 2008
Unlike Bordeaux's vintage-of-the-century after vintage-of-the-century which
had negociants adjusting their prices into the skies, most of the Burgundian
prices have appeared to keep at fairly stable levels through the excellent
2005 vintage. Just as good is the 2006 vintage, and tasting across the
releases, most of these wines are so much more approachable right now
without the fresh raw tannins whilst having a depth of fruit-driven
complexity and floral aromatics. This is perhaps surprising given the poor
August weather conditions which would have doubters being negative to the
whole vintage and instead choosing to continue harping on about the 2005s.
However, astute vine maintenance and fruit selection along with firm
winemaking principles did result in some beautiful wines.
Domaine Jean Grivot, according to Etienne Grivot, has only come into itself
in recent years. Despite more than 20 years of making wine, Etienne feels
that he has only just started to figure out the optimal intricacies of fruit
selection, pressing, fermentation and oak treatment. Gone are the hard
tannins and masculine structure of the wines from the 90s. Grivot wines of
the 2000s are more aromatic, perfume of flowers, pure fruit essence and
flavours, but not letting up in terms of complexity. The wines are
well-balanced, of a good structure and will be worth cellaring.
Jean Grivot 2006 Vosne-Romanee
$100-120. A subdued nose, black berries with a hint of spice whirled
together, and this comes through much better on the palate. This is a
medium-bodied wine with dark berry flavours with spice, cloves and cinnamon.
The tannins are firm and velvety, but do not pose a mouthful at this early
age. Lovely finish. Drink now, but have a bottle or two in 5-7 years.
Jean Grivot 2006 Charmois Nuits St.Georges
$100-120. A touch of lavender and cinnamon on the nose. Wonderful textures
with layers of slightly ripening strawberries and red cherry through a
cushioned finish. The tannins are well-integrated but lend themselves to a
finish which unfortunately ended a little too soon. Drink now, or in 5-7
Jean Grivot 2006 Brulees Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru
$180-220. Brulees is sited just above Richebourg and typically shows
richness, perfumed aromatics and a solid core. The 2006 had a softer nose
though certainly a step up from the Grand Cru. This is a rich, fleshy drink
with red and black berry flavours but retains its pure fruit freshness and
is not flabby or confused. The young tannins are still clearly visible but
fades off to allow the fruit to kick back in for a second wave that leads
into a wonderful finish. Enjoy one now, the rest in 7 years. 93/100.
Jean Grivot 2006 Les Boudots Nuits St.Georges 1er Cru
$180-220. Boudots is on the border with Vosne, and is in close proximity
with La Tache - certainly one feature that couldn't be talked up more!
Qualities of dark fruit, cherry, almost brandy-like richness with sweet
clove spice. Young with ripe tannins at the moment, well-rounded flavours
with good acidity and backbone. A vibrant drink assured to bring enjoyment.
Jean Grivot 2006 Echezeaux
$270-320. This leaks Class! Lovely dark fruit mingled with aromas of anise
and undergrowth. The tannins in this wine appear slightly more resolved
compared to the rest of the 06s, and are intertwined with the pure fruit
flavours. Perhaps a slight knock is the fruit tends to the simpler side, and
lacks any more obvious signs of complexity. Brilliant for 2018/19 NYE.
Jean Grivot 2006 Clos de Vougeot
$230-280. A big sleek offering here, cold fresh dark berry and cherry fruit
with herb bouquet suggest a rich, concentrated wine. The follow through is
not disappointing, clean intense fruit essence, prominent, ripe young
tannins do not diminish the intensity of the fruit and the purity trickles
into the long finish. Forget about this to 10-15 years. 95+/100.